How to Get Rid of Spiders in Basement — The Ultimate Step-by-Step Guide

If you’ve ever opened the basement door and felt a tiny shiver — not because it’s chilly but because you saw a spider web — you’re not alone. Basements are prime real estate for spiders. This guide shows, step by step, exactly how to get rid of spiders in basement spaces, from quick fixes to long-term prevention. Think of it like cleaning up a guest list: remove the food, close the doors, and the uninvited guests eventually leave.

Quick Summary: What this guide will teach you

In plain terms: you’ll learn how to inspect, clean, block entry points, use natural repellents and traps, and decide when to bring in a pro. By the end you’ll have a repeatable, low-stress routine so the question how to get rid of spiders in basement becomes easy to answer.

Why basements attract spiders

Basements are cozy for spiders — dark, humid, and full of hiding places. They’re like a comfy Airbnb for bugs.

Common basement spider species

• Cellar spiders (“daddy longlegs”) — common, make messy webs.

• House spiders — small, shy, build webs near corners.

• Wolf spiders — ground-hunters, hide in clutter.
  Most are harmless, but they still make your basement feel unwelcoming.

Basement conditions spiders love

• Cluttered boxes, cardboard, and stacked items.

• Damp corners and poor ventilation.

• Gaps around doors, windows, pipes, and foundation cracks.

• Presence of other insects (their food source).

Is a spider infestation dangerous? Health & safety

Most basement spiders are not aggressive. Bites are rare and usually happen if the spider is provoked. Yet, some species can cause medical issues — and the last thing you want is kids or pets brushing against webs.

Which spiders are harmless and which need caution

• Generally harmless: cellar and common house spiders.

• Caution: if you see large brown or unusual spiders, treat carefully; consider calling a pro to identify them. Don’t handle unknown species with bare hands.

Step-by-step strategy overview

Here’s the one-line plan: Inspect → Remove → Block → Repel → Monitor. We’ll unpack each step in detail so you can follow the “how to get rid of spiders in basement” process like a pro.

Step 1 — Inspect: Where spiders hide and why

Start by doing a detective sweep. Spiders are secretive; they prefer low-traffic zones.

Checking corners, boxes, pipes, and attics under the stairs

• Use a flashlight to inspect ceiling corners, behind appliances, under shelves, and inside boxes.

• Look for webs (dusty, old webs show long-term occupancy).

• Note moisture areas — stains, standing water, or condensation on pipes. These are hot spots.

Tip: Take photos of problem areas — that helps track progress.

Step 2 — Declutter & deep clean

Clutter = prime spider hotel real estate. Decluttering removes hiding places and reduces prey insects.

Best cleaning methods and vacuuming tips

• Remove cardboard — it retains moisture and insects. Replace with plastic bins with tight lids.

• Vacuum thoroughly: corners, baseboards, rafters, and behind appliances. Use the crevice tool and dispose of vacuum bag or empty canister outside.

• Sweep spider webs down from ceilings and corners. Repeat weekly for a month.

• Wash floors with a mild detergent — spiders avoid heavily trafficked, clean places.

Analogy: Think of clutter as a dense forest; clearing paths discourages wildlife from nesting.

Step 3 — Reduce humidity and control moisture

Spiders don’t need water like you do, but they like damp climates that attract insects.

Using dehumidifiers, fans, and proper drainage

• Run a dehumidifier until basement humidity is between 30–50%.

• Ensure gutters and downspouts direct water away from the foundation.

• Fix leaks and insulate cold water pipes to prevent condensation.

• Use fans or heat to keep air moving in musty corners.

A drier basement is like a desert to spiders — uncomfortable and unattractive.

Step 4 — Seal entry points and gaps

Think of sealing as closing the doors and windows the spiders use.

What to caulk, weatherstrip, and insulate

• Seal gaps around windows, doors, utility pipes, and foundation cracks with silicone caulk.

• Install door sweeps on exterior basement doors.

• Replace torn window screens and seal around window frames with foam or caulk.

• Consider foam insulation for larger gaps, but keep it neatly trimmed.

Pro tip: Spiders can squeeze through tiny gaps — treat even small openings.

Step 5 — Natural repellents and DIY sprays

If you prefer non-toxic options, there are effective natural repellents.

Essential oils, vinegar mixes, and diatomaceous earth

• Essential oils: Peppermint, tea tree, citrus, and eucalyptus diluted in water (10–15 drops per cup) can be sprayed around baseboards and entry points. Reapply weekly.

• Vinegar spray: 1 part white vinegar to 1 part water — safe for most surfaces, disrupts scent trails.

• Diatomaceous earth (food-grade): A light dusting in corners kills insects by desiccation; use cautiously around pets.

• Cedar: Cedar blocks or chips in storage areas help deter many pests.

Note: Natural repellents often deter rather than eliminate. Use them as part of the full strategy.

Step 6 — Traps and mechanical removal

Mechanics first: traps and vacuums are immediate and low-toxicity.

Sticky traps, glue boards, vacuums, and safe removal

• Place sticky traps along baseboards, behind boxes, and near windows. Check weekly.

• Use the vacuum to remove spiders and egg sacs. Seal and dispose vacuum contents outdoors.

• For single spiders: use a jar-and-paper method (cup the spider and slide paper under — then release outside well away from the house).

• Gloves and long-handled brushes help if you’re squeamish.

Remember: removing egg sacs is key to preventing a rebound.

Step 7 — When to use chemical treatments (safely)

Pesticides are a last resort for persistent problems. When used responsibly, they can be part of an effective plan.

Low-toxicity options, spot treatments, and safety first

• Use targeted sprays for cracks and baseboards rather than foggers. Foggers often spread chemical everywhere and are less effective.

• Choose products labeled for indoor use and follow label instructions exactly.

• Keep children and pets out of treated areas until safe per product label.

• Consider professional application if you prefer a guarantee or have venomous species.

Safety first: always store chemicals in locked cabinets and never mix products.

Step 8 — Long-term prevention and monitoring

Prevention is where most of your success comes from. Small habits, big payoff.

Seasonal checks, pest-proof storage, and regular routines

• Monthly check of known hotspots (corners, behind appliances, around boxes).

• Use plastic bins with lids for storage and avoid floor-level placement — keep storage off the floor.

• Continue dehumidifier use in warmer months.

• Replace sticky traps every 4–6 weeks or when full.

• Keep landscape trimmed and remove leaf piles near foundation.

A little maintenance every few weeks prevents a big clean-out later.

Quick checklist: 10 things to do right now

1. Sweep down all visible webs.

2. Vacuum corners, shelves, and boxes.

3. Move cardboard to sealed plastic storage bins.

4. Run a dehumidifier for 24–72 hours.

5. Inspect and seal any gaps around doors and pipes.

6. Place sticky traps along baseboards.

7. Spray perimeter with a vinegar or essential oil mix.

8. Check for insect infestations (food for spiders) and treat.

9. Remove clutter and keep a clean traffic path.

10. Schedule a monthly basement inspection.

Seasonal tips: Best moves for spring, fall, and winter

• Spring: Deep clean after winter, check for overwintering spiders.

• Fall: Seal larger gaps before spiders migrate indoors. Increase trapping.

• Winter: Keep humidity stable; watch for indoor movement as it gets colder outside.

Timing matters. Seasonal prep reduces sudden infestations.

DIY vs Professional pest control: How to decide

If you have a few spiders and want to reduce numbers, DIY is usually enough. Call a pro when:

• You find large numbers weekly despite consistent effort.

• You identify potentially dangerous species.

• Infestation spans multiple rooms or floors.

• You prefer a warranty or guarantee for treatment.

Professionals bring targeted treatments and experience — but you can handle most basement spider issues yourself.

Budgeting: Cost estimate for DIY vs pro treatment

• DIY: Under $100–200 for basic supplies (dehumidifier rental, traps, caulk, essential oils, diatomaceous earth).

• Professional: One-time visits typically $150–$400 depending on size and severity; monthly/quarterly plans cost more.
  Balance cost with convenience and the severity of the infestation.

Common mistakes to avoid when removing spiders

• Using foggers indiscriminately — they’re often ineffective for spiders.

• Expecting one treatment to solve a long-term problem — prevention is ongoing.

• Overusing pesticides indoors without reading labels.

• Ignoring moisture issues — dry basements deter spiders naturally.

Avoid these and your efforts will stick.

Eco-friendly & pet/kid-safe strategies

• Favor mechanical removal, traps, and natural sprays.

• Use food-grade diatomaceous earth (not pool-grade) and keep pets away during application.

• Consider sticky traps over poisoned baits if pets are likely to investigate.

• Seal and ventilate rather than rely only on chemicals.

You can protect your family and the planet while solving the problem.

Conclusion — Simple action plan you can start today

So — how to get rid of spiders in basement? Start small: declutter, vacuum, and seal obvious gaps. Run a dehumidifier and place a couple of sticky traps. Add a weekly quick sweep to your routine. If results lag after consistent effort for a month, step up to targeted natural repellents or a spot pesticide treatment, and call a professional if you suspect dangerous species. Think of the approach as landscaping your basement’s microclimate: remove what attracts them, block entry, and keep the place unfriendly for pests. With these steps, your basement will go from creepy-crawly to clean-and-comfy.

FAQs — 5 quick answers

Q1: Will sealing gaps alone get rid of spiders?
Sealing gaps is essential but not always sufficient alone. Combine it with cleaning, moisture control, and traps for best results.

Q2: Are essential oils effective for long-term spider control?
They help deter spiders but usually don’t eliminate an infestation by themselves. Use oils as part of a combined plan.

Q3: Is diatomaceous earth safe around pets?
Food-grade diatomaceous earth is safer, but avoid inhalation and keep pets away during application; follow label guidance.

Q4: How often should I check sticky traps and vacuum?
Check sticky traps every 2–4 weeks and vacuum high-risk areas weekly until the problem is under control.

Q5: When should I call pest control?
Call a professional if you see many spiders regularly, identify a dangerous species, or if DIY steps aren’t reducing numbers after a month.